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days there wouldn't have been any table for a rich gangster, or for vulgar people who merely had money. How maitres-de-hotel know the difference between vulgar people who've merely got money, gangsters who've merely got money and correct society I don't know, but they have ways of knowing. They're very subtle about those things.

The city took it over at some point and then it began to be cheapened. A looser kind of service came in. The head waiter was related to some Tammany Hall grandee and anything went. He didn't pull the reins tight on the waiters and bawl them out if they did this or did that. Therefore, the service all got commonplace and cheap. If there was a spot on the lapel of the waiter's coat, it didn't matter. They would sometimes talk back to the customers. It got to be less and less correct. The kind of people you saw there were more big-cigars-in-the-corner-of-the-mouth type. It wasn't as nice as it had been. It was lovely in the early days.

Originally that place was under German-American auspices of the kind that ran those lovely gardens up on Lexington and 3rd Avenue. They were really lovely big old gardens. There was a lovely one at 93rd, 94th or 95th and Broadway. They were lovely old German restaurant-gardens. It was on the corner of Broadway and ran way back on 95th,