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sometimes said the most intuitive, touching and beautiful things. When he went to anybody's funeral, he wept salt tears right down his cheeks. He cared. But he didn't make a stylish appearance as the leader of the city, as Jimmy Walker did.

The European idea of a mayor is an important one. He represents the people. As such he gives a beautiful reception. All that has a meaning. Ritual and ceremony is the standardized method of expressing feelings of respect, hospitality and appropriate reverence, grief or whatever it is in the appropriate degree, within bounds and in a language which is understood by everyone and does not rest upon the spur of the moment, such as an improvised speech, which is so often so awkward and without great significance. It doesn't make any point to things. A reception of a distinguished visitor by a municipality does seem to require some ritual.

Here you are an American. You have come primarily to visit this town because in it is a factory which you wish to see. For instance, I wished to see the crystallerie of the valle de St. Lambert. That was a glass factory where they made crystal. It's like the Baccarat glass. Before the Thirty Years War they were all one. Then they were divided. The crystallerie du valle de St. Lambert was located in a deserted monastery in its principal building. I was